We have received a few questions from visitors about the history of Jewellery – why do we make things from certain metals? Why are diamonds so prized? How old is Jewellery and why do we wear it? To look at the history of jewellery is to look at the history of humanity itself. All cultures on Earth make and wear jewellery in some form or another and we have been doing this for a very long time, taking inspiration from our surroundings and decorating our bodies. As we have learned to work new metals and materials, our jewellery has become more and more sophisticated and intricate, and this trend is still continuing today. 

In this post, we’ll answer the questions we’ve received so far and delve into some fascinating history along the way!

Question 1: Why do we wear Jewellery in the first place?

 The reasons why we wear jewellery are varied, but generally it has been to denote some kind of affiliation, to show a personal meaning, to show social status and personal status, or to offer some kind of spiritual protection, like an amulet. Functional items, like clothespins and buckles have also sometimes evolved into decorative items over time. Jewellery has also been made from a variety of materials over time, however gemstones and precious metals are the most common materials used. Throughout history, we have seen many forms and styles of jewellery come and go, although some have always remained constant. These include rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and cufflinks. Jewellery has been invented for and worn however on every part of the human body. The word jewellery also has an interesting history in itself, coming from the French “Joeul” which can be traced further back to the Latin “Jocale”, meaning a plaything or toy.

Question 2: Who was the first to make Jewellery? How old is it?

The oldest evidence we have of Jewellery dates from nearly 100,000 years ago.

 It might surprise you to learn that it was not humans who first made jewellery. No, we aren’t talking about aliens unfortunately, but it was a distant cousin of ours, the Neanderthals, who are credited with inventing it. The oldest evidence we have dates from nearly 100,000 years ago and these are delicately carved beads made from shells believed to be worn around the neck as a pendant. If we focus on the jewellery that we see and wear today, we can trace it’s origins back nearly 5,000 years to Ancient Mesopotamia. In cities like Babylon, jewellery making was a serious profession and it was often made from thin sheets of metal leaf studded with precious stones and engraved and embellished with various designs, including leaves and spirals. Jewellers also made pieces not just for people, but also to adorn religious statues as a form of worship. These practices were further developed in Egypt, where the Egyptians prized gold above all other metals for its rarity and workability. Jewellery also carried a huge religious and personal significance in these times, symbolising wealth and power in the community and being carried with the owner into death. The Egyptians used a number of stones to decorate their metalwork, with carnelian, turquoise and lapis lazuli reserved for the finest examples of royal jewellery.  

Neanderthal shell necklace dating from around 50,000 years ago. You can still see some orange pigment that would have been painted on (From: https://n.pr/3QTIYlU)

Question 3: Why silver and gold? Why do we use these for jewellery making?

Early Greek philosophers believed that gold must be some natural combination of water and concentrated sunlight as it could be collected from rivers and streams

 Silver and gold (and platinum too) have always been used in jewellery making for a few reasons. Firstly, these metals are rare and hard to extract in large quantities. They are also intrinsically beautiful, maintaining their lustre when other metals corrode and oxidise. When you add in practical considerations as well, such as their malleability and durability, it’s easy to see why we have placed so much value in these particular metals throughout history. Silver has a very long history, with the first evidence of mining dating back to 3,000 BC in Greece and Turkey. Much of the silver mined back then was used to make coins, giving the currency a value. The use of silver really took off after Europeans landed in the New World in 1492 and found large deposits of silver and silver ore. It was estimated that between 1500 and 1800, over 80% of the world’s silver came from South America in particular. Today silver is of course still used in jewellery making, either by itself or as a base to plate other metals on. It is also used extensively in photography and the electronics industries. The history of gold dates back even earlier, with some estimates placing it’s first use at around 4,000 BC in eastern Europe. To extract gold from rivers, people would place sheepskin in the water and let the tiny gold deposits get trapped in the fibres. After drying and shaking the skin, the gold could be collected and melted into larger pieces. This is believed to be the origin of the mythical “Golden Fleece” in the story of Jason and the Argonauts. Interestingly, early Greek philosophers believed that gold must be some natural combination of water and concentrated sunlight as it could be collected this way! Almost every culture on Earth has used gold to make precious objects and objects of value. It’s unique properties have always fascinated us and its value has allowed the invention of currency and the economy. Gold, like silver is still used extensively in the world of jewellery as well as in the manufacturing of electronics.

Question 4: When did diamonds start being used in Jewellery?

 Diamonds are forever? - At least since 1947. 

 Diamond is a very interesting stone. Composed of pure carbon (exactly the same as coal), diamonds are formed deep within the Earth’s crust under immense heat and pressure. The arrangement of the carbon atoms means that diamond is extremely durable and very hard, hence it’s original name in ancient Greek (Adámas – meaning unbreakable, unalterable). Most diamonds are very old stones, estimated to be have been formed between 1 – 3 billion years ago. We know that the first diamonds used in jewellery came from India at least 3,000 years ago, where deposits of the stones were close to the surface and easy to mine. Trade along the silk road, the ancient trade route connecting Asia and Europe, carried these diamonds to many different centres where they were prized for their hardness. These were rare stones and some were worn as protective talismans, thought to ward off evil and protect from disease whilst others were used to engrave metal and cut softer stones. We tend to associate diamonds with engagement rings today, but they were not embraced for this purpose until quite late in history, the first time a diamond ring is used to propose marriage is only in 1477. The popularity of diamonds in engagement rings today we can attribute to the De Beers mining corporation, who in 1947 ran a popular advertising campaign with the slogan “diamonds are forever” and the suggestion that diamond was the only choice for an engagement ring. Since then, more than 80% of engagement rings sold today contain diamonds.

Ancient Roman ring containing a pointed, unpolished diamond. Certainly looks different from the diamonds that we see today! (From: https://bit.ly/3adVMD8)

Question 5: Why don’t we see much antique jewellery for sale today?

The famous Hope diamond has been cut and re-shaped and set in numerous settings over it's nearly 400-year history - from pendants to headpieces to a cravat-pin

 This is an interesting question, and there are a few reasons for this. It is also important to note the defnitions here – antique generally refers to anything over 100 years old, whilst vintage is used for anything made 50 – 99 years in the past. The first reason is that sadly, jewellery doesn’t last forever, and pieces may break and become lost throughout the years. This is especially true for everyday jewellery. Another reason is that pieces may get broken up on purpose, with the stones being sold or given to others or being remade into new pieces of jewellery. This is especially true for larger heirloom pieces that have been altered for comfort or aesthetic reasons when they pass to new generations or new owners. A good example of this is the very famous Hope diamond, which throughout it’s nearly 400 year history has been cut and re-shaped and set in numerous settings from pendants to headpieces to a cravat-pin. Thirdly, many heirloom pieces are kept in families for many generations and may never be seen on the open jewellery market. Antique and vintage pieces of jewellery both have a broad appeal and such a sense of history and story to them though that when they do appear for sale, they are incredibly popular.

We hope that this has answered your questions and hope that you've enjoyed a bit of history along the way. If there is anything else that we can answer for you, please leave a comment and we can include it in a future post!